How can we continue the extraordinary legacy of Martin Margiela, the pioneering designer? And how do we follow up on John Galliano's spectacular haute couture collection for Autumn 2024, creating new brilliance? Perhaps only Glenn Martens can reveal the answers.
Without a doubt, Glenn Martens has showcased his unique talent in taking over fashion brands, like a magician turning stone into gold. This Belgian designer excels at distilling the essence of a brand and accurately capturing the current trends. Just as he maintained the DNA of this Italian denim powerhouse during his time at Diesel, his debut for Maison Margiela’s 2025 Autumn Artisanal line starts from the fundamentals, not only recreating Margiela's iconic core elements but also preserving the dramatic flair that characterized Galliano's tenure.
Recently held at Le Centquatre in Paris, Glenn Martens guided the audience through an experience reminiscent of Martin Margiela's farewell show from March 2009. The runway was laid with shattered tiles, and the walls were whimsically adorned with layers of peeling posters, creating an atmosphere that felt like a tribute to the passage of time.
This layout offers a striking contrast for the opening look, directly echoing the runway of 2009: gowns and coats crafted from translucent polyurethane, paired with Martin Margiela's iconic diverse masks. Following this, the runway vibe shifted rapidly as models showcased metallic-hued dresses, gliding mysteriously along the catwalk like precious, molten minerals.
Throughout the entire showcase, the influence of John Galliano is omnipresent. For instance, the ultra-skinny vests and luxurious floral patterns with antique patina; Martens transforms these golden Renaissance-inspired elements into Margiela's signature deconstructed language, then reconfigures the patchworked fabrics into trench coats, long skirts, and fitted dresses.
Showcasing a gradually emerging sense of decay, a jewel-encrusted polo shirt seems like it was just unearthed from the ground, while the light-colored denim pants resemble the oldest jeans excavated from an abandoned mine. Even the seemingly leather jackets and skirts exude a rugged and resilient texture; and though the fabrics are light and elegant, they still display effects of charring and damage.
However, at the end of the showcase, Glenn Martens conveyed a message of impending revival. A men's suit jacket paired with a skirt, embellished with elegant emerald jewels and topped off with an irregular chrome mask, made a strong statement. Following this, a long-sleeved dress was draped in shimmering gold and silver sequins. The collection also featured blossoms blooming in layers of delicate tulle, while headpieces resembled magnificent bouquets. Moreover, translucent plastic materials made a return, showcased in vibrant coats that exuded a cutting-edge vibe.
Ultimately, the series concludes with one of the few solid-colored looks. This vibrant lime green ensemble skillfully combines a ruffled top with a flowing long skirt, symbolizing growth and renewal—Maison Margiela's new chapter has begun.
