Chopard has teamed up with Zagato once again to unveil the all-new Chopard x Zagato Lab One Concept racing tourbillon watch. This marks their third collaboration since 2013, and this time, the piece not only continues their passion for motorsport culture but also reimagines traditional high-end watchmaking through the engineering mindset of concept cars. With a limited run of just 19 pieces, this release echoes the pivotal year of 1919, when Zagato was founded.
The 42mm watch case draws its core inspiration from a tubular structure, reflecting the essence of racing chassis design. Multiple tubular support elements form the primary framework, aimed at maintaining high rigidity while keeping the weight ultra-light, effectively dispersing mechanical stress under pressure. This kind of design has traditionally been seen in the world of high-performance racing vehicles, but has now been transformed into watch structure design, emphasizing engineering logic over conventional decorative language.
The case, bridge, and main plate are meticulously crafted from ceramic titanium alloy. After undergoing plasma oxidation treatment, the surface hardness reaches approximately 1000 Vickers, offering scratch resistance comparable to that of ceramics while retaining the lightweight characteristics of titanium. The charcoal gray microbead sandblasted finish delivers a subtle industrial aesthetic, along with outstanding durability that resists fading even during prolonged wear. With this material at its core, the entire watch, including the strap, weighs just 43.2 grams, and without the strap, it weighs only 36.5 grams, making it one of the lightest titanium tourbillon watches the brand has ever produced. The case thickness measures 11.15 millimeters, and it boasts a water resistance depth of 50 meters, balancing lightweight design with essential practicality.
The design details are equally centered around racing elements. The traditional lugs have been replaced by self-locking tubular lugs that can swing about 45 degrees upwards, allowing the case to fit more naturally to the wrist, while echoing the chassis structure concept. The crown, with a diameter of 7.4 millimeters, features a steering wheel pattern, inspired by racing mechanical components. The box-shaped sapphire crystal is flush with the case side and includes a double-sided anti-reflective treatment for clearer readability.
The dial actually merges seamlessly with the movement’s main plate. The surface, crafted from charcoal-gray ceramic titanium, features the iconic Zagato logo in an intricate pattern, enhanced by polished rhodium bevels that create a three-dimensional effect. Both the Chopard and Zagato logos are presented in relief. The openwork hour and minute hands are inspired by the spokes of a racing steering wheel, while at 6 o’clock, you’ll find a 60-second tourbillon with a small seconds hand, and at 12 o’clock, a fuel gauge-shaped power reserve indicator, transforming the concept of a racing dashboard into a time-reading layout.
At its heart is the manually wound L.U.C 04.04-L movement, comprising 207 components with a diameter of 30.60 millimeters and outfitted with 29 jewels. This movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), boasts a power reserve of up to 60 hours, and is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The 60-second tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position features an aluminum frame to further reduce weight while maintaining structural stability.
To enhance seismic performance, the movement features an elastic shock-absorption system based on the principle of silent blocks, secured within the case by four lever arms, effectively reducing the impact of external shocks on its operation. The balance wheel utilizes a Variner® design, coupled with Phillips terminal curve hairspring, emphasizing stability and precision in timekeeping. The bridge plate and main plate are entirely made from ceramic titanium metal, embodying a lightweight philosophy that harmonizes structural design with engineering performance.
The Chopard x Zagato Lab One Concept comes with two strap options: a high-tech fabric strap featuring a Velcro closure and a calfskin strap fitted with a ceramic titanium pin buckle. Each option showcases a unique approach—one embracing a racing aesthetic while the other leans towards a more classic style. Limited to just 19 pieces, it’s exclusively available through Chopard.
