At this year’s Geneva Watches & Wonders exhibition, Cartier unveiled a range of new timepieces, showcasing reimagined classics, jewelry watch artistry, and advancements in high-end movements. The spotlight was on the Cartier Privé collection’s Tank à Guichets watch, a fresh interpretation of the 1928 jumping hour design, equipped with the exclusive 9755 MC hand-wound movement, embodying the perfect balance between the brand’s mechanical craftsmanship and minimalist aesthetics. In addition to the Tank à Guichets, the launch also included the new large-sized Tank Louis Cartier, the sculptural Tressage watch, striking new additions to the iconic Panthère de Cartier series, and the Cartier Panthère Jewelry Watch, which masterfully blends jewelry and horological craftsmanship, fully showcasing the brand’s diverse creative prowess.
The Tank à Guichets watch stands as one of Cartier’s pioneering creations to adopt jump-hour technology. This latest edition faithfully restores the original design, maintaining the hour window at 12 o’clock, the minutes disc window at 6 o’clock, and the crown design at the top. The timepiece is powered by the manually wound 9755 MC caliber movement, developed in Cartier’s workshop. Comprising 208 components, the movement features a 4.2mm thickness, offers a 48-hour power reserve, and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. As for the case, it is available in matte platinum and matte 18K yellow gold versions, with dimensions of 40mm x 26mm and an 8.4mm thickness. This design emphasizes geometric symmetry and structural aesthetics, forgoing traditional hands and dials in favor of a minimalist digital time display, showcasing the brand’s reimagined and contemporary interpretation of jump-hour aesthetics.
The Tank Louis Cartier watch takes a step forward with an upgraded version unveiled at the exhibition. This new large model is equipped with the in-house developed 1899 MC automatic winding movement, specifically designed for the Tank series. Measuring just 2.9mm thick, it offers a power reserve of 40 hours. The new creation stays true to the original design language of the 1922 model, featuring its signature rectangular silhouette, slim lugs, and rounded edges. The proportions have been meticulously calculated to ensure seamless harmony between the new movement and the case. Available in 18K rose gold and yellow gold versions, the design maintains the minimalist elegance of the Tank Louis Cartier series, while its expanded dimensions provide wearers with enhanced visual balance.
In the realm of jewelry and watchmaking, the Tressage watch embodies Cartier’s signature spirit of creative experimentation. Drawing inspiration from the art of metal weaving, this timepiece features a gold case adorned with dazzling diamonds and gemstones, exuding a striking sculptural presence. The overall design carries forth the structural language of collections like Maillon, Coussin, and Réflection de Cartier, crafting an interplay of light and shadow through meticulously arranged layers of metal. Its appearance resembles a high-end jewelry necklace, yet it seamlessly incorporates a mechanical movement, making it a masterpiece that combines ornamental elegance with functional sophistication.
The Panthère de Cartier collection delves further into the abstract use of animal patterns and bold colors. The new timepiece features a lacquered dial in black and golden brown, adorned with 145 round brilliant-cut diamonds and accented with orange and yellow spessartite garnets, mimicking the textures of zebra and tiger fur. Each piece is crafted at the Maison des Métiers d’Art workshop, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship through high-temperature multi-layer lacquer finishing and snow-setting diamond techniques, highlighting mastery in artisanal artistry and material refinement.
Lastly, Cartier unveiled the Panthère de Cartier jewelry watch, a masterpiece that fuses sculptural artistry with timekeeping functionality, showcasing the brand’s profound expertise in animal-themed creations. The case is crafted from gold, featuring a three-dimensional panther poised to pounce. Its sleek body is adorned with black lacquer spots, eyes set with tsavorite garnets, and an onyx nose, creating an exquisitely lifelike visual effect. The time display is positioned at the heart of the watch, intertwined with the dual-themed design structure. The bezel and the area surrounding the dial are encrusted with brilliant-cut diamonds, amplifying the luxurious allure while reflecting the seamless integration of jewelry craftsmanship and watchmaking expertise.
Looking at the five new timepieces unveiled by Cartier in this year’s Watches & Wonders exhibition, whether it’s the reimagining of historical classics, innovative use of materials and colors, or the brand’s continuous focus on watchmaking techniques and movement development, it all reaffirms Cartier’s unique standing and creative prowess in the world of haute horlogerie. Notably, the Tank à Guichets watch, with its jumping hour mechanism and minimalist design, stands out as one of the most recognizable and mechanically elegant pieces of the collection.
