Thirty years may seem like just enough time to define a style in the realm of high-end watchmaking, while still leaving room for evolution. Roger Dubuis, a brand established in 1995, has never aimed to reshape tradition; instead, it’s all about crafting a brand new language. While Patek Philippe speaks of heritage, Audemars Piguet describes structure, and Richard Mille focuses on materials, Roger Dubuis opts for the intersection of style, mechanics, and drama—transforming watchmaking into architecture, a performance, a mechanical narrative that demands to be seen and understood.
The inception of the brand is shaped by two visionaries: Mr. Roger Dubuis, a traditional watchmaking maestro who departed from Patek Philippe, and Carlos Dias, a designer with a background in geometry and visual experimentation. Their collaboration hinted early on that this brand would veer off the beaten path. In 1996, the Hommage and Sympathie collections were introduced, each highlighting a sculptural sense of structure and silhouette. The irregular case of the Sympathie is strikingly recognizable, while the robust bridge plates of the Hommage serve as a stage for complex functions. These designs stand in stark contrast to the understated, symmetrical, and classically proportioned styles emphasized by the Swiss watchmaking industry at the time.
In-House Movements and Visual Breakthroughs: The Constructive Period of Technical Language
In 1999, the brand launched its first self-designed and produced movements, swiftly earning the Geneva Seal certification for all of them, becoming one of the rare few brands to fully master in-house movements and traditional craftsmanship standards just a few years after its establishment. The Much More series, released the same year, was inspired by the Art Deco aesthetics of the 1920s, featuring a vertically oval case that created a distinctly different wearing experience. In 2000, the brand secured a patent for its three jumping display, laying the groundwork for a unique visual language in future mechanical designs, and introduced the Too Much series, beginning an exploration of exaggerated proportions and decorative lines.
In 2001, Roger Dubuis established its own watchmaking factory in the outskirts of Geneva. After its completion the following year, the brand unveiled 11 new movements, including a modular movement that combines chronograph and perpetual calendar features, as well as minute repeater and tourbillon functions, showcasing the brand’s ambition in integrating complex functionalities. By 2003, they successfully developed their own hair spring and balance wheel, marking the brand’s first completely in-house regulator system, which was quickly applied to their inhouse tourbillon movements.
In 2003, two collections, Follow Me and Golden Square, were launched simultaneously, breaking the visual norm dominated by round shapes in watch design and introducing cross and square designs.
In 2004, the Sympathie EasyDiver marked the brand’s first foray into the realm of sports watches, and it was also the first sports timepiece equipped with titanium and a tourbillon. That same year, the AquaMare and SeaMore diving collections were unveiled, showcasing the brand’s exploration of Function-driven mechanical designs.
Excalibur and Architectural Hollowing: The Machine as the Main Character
In 2005, Roger Dubuis entered a new phase. The Excalibur series officially debuted, introducing two core movements: the RD01SQ double tourbillon skeleton movement and the RD08 minute repeater tourbillon movement. These pieces transcended mere mechanical structures, becoming the stars of the entire watch design. The movement morphed into architecture, while time itself evolved into composition. Skeletonization is not just about removing the excess; it’s a performance—every gear, bridge, and balance wheel is meticulously crafted like a theatrical design.
In the following five years, the brand launched a series of new movements: in 2006 alone, they unveiled six models, including the RD05 and RD09 (based on tourbillon), RD78 and RD79 (chronograph modules), and RD48 and RD77 (calendar modules). The 2008 King Square series represented the brand’s innovative attempt to explore Spatial Awareness using triple-faceted sapphire glass. By 2009, they introduced their first self-made ultra-complicated watch, combining a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and tourbillon—showing a significant advancement in their technical prowess.
Mechanical Narratives and Narrative Machines: From the Knights of the Round Table to Feminine Language
From 2011 to 2016, this was a period of expansive storytelling in Roger Dubuis’ design narrative. The Monegasque collection stands as the brand’s sole creation featuring a cushion-shaped case, drawing inspiration from the aesthetic of casinos and reflecting the spirit of Monte Carlo style. In 2012, the Velvet Diva series emerged as the brand’s first exclusive timepiece for women, showcasing a design with architectural elegance in the lugs and employing materials and adornments that speak the language of haute jewelry. The Pulsion collection, on the other hand, targets the sporty style market, merging dynamism, challenge, and sturdiness into a choice that’s youthful yet uncompromising.
In 2013, the brand introduced the Excalibur Quatuor movement RD101, boasting three world patents and successfully challenging the traditional discourse on tourbillon gravity compensation. With a structure featuring four balance wheels and five differentials, it not only delivers a visual shock but also offers an alternative solution to the logic of time stability.
The Round Table Knights collection, born in the same year, represents the pinnacle of the brand’s narrative watchmaking. Twelve intricately sculpted golden knights guard a sapphire dial, bringing the legend of King Arthur to life in a three-dimensional structure, symbolizing the brand’s Métiers d’Art. From this moment on, art transcends mere decoration and becomes an integral part of Roger Dubuis’s mechanical language.
The Birth of Hyper Horology™: Collaborations, Materials, and Kinetic Energy
Since 2017, Roger Dubuis has officially entered the phase of Hyper Horology™, collaborating with Lamborghini Squadra Corse and Pirelli to launch several remarkable pieces. The Excalibur Aventador S boasts five patented watchmaking innovations, translating the power of supercars into a mechanical structure. Meanwhile, the Spider Carbon stands out as the first timepiece utilizing a carbon composite for its movement base plate, bridge, and tourbillon frame, successfully receiving the Geneva Seal certification, symbolizing the fusion of innovative materials and top-notch craftsmanship.
In 2018, the brand launched the Huracán watch series along with the Spider PitStop collection, emphasizing modular design and personalized color language, marking a significant milestone in the brand’s journey towards functional customization. By 2021, the double tourbillon made its debut with a ceramic case; that same year, the Countach double tourbillon paid tribute to the iconic supercar. The brand also began collaborations with artists like Dr. Woo and Gully, expanding its watchmaking language into the realm of contemporary art.
The Round Table Knight series entered a new phase in 2021, with each knight sculpture now featuring unique poses and accessory designs. The precision of craftsmanship has been enhanced, and the narrative depth has further developed. In 2022, the first model featuring a centrally mounted tourbillon was introduced, replacing traditional hands with a rotating sapphire disc, transforming the act of reading time into a captivating performance.
In 2023, the Monovortex concept watch was unveiled, featuring a revolutionary cone-shaped tourbillon and a vertical oscillating weight. It introduces a new reading structure for the rotating minute counter, setting a fresh model for the brand’s future movements. Three flyback chronograph pieces were subsequently released, bringing functionality back into the spotlight, along with a special edition watch launched in celebration of Pirelli’s 150th anniversary.
Thirty Years: A Response to the Brand’s Original Intention and Future
In 2025, Roger Dubuis responds to three decades of watchmaking history with two Excalibur pieces, showcasing the brand’s relentless technical evolution and its ability to reconstruct the language of mechanics.
Among them, the Excalibur Grande Complication is a comprehensive summary of the brand’s extreme craftsmanship. This watch is equipped with the in-house RD118 movement, composed of 684 components, and integrates three major horological complications: minute repeater, double retrograde perpetual calendar, and flying tourbillon. The minute repeater module has been redesigned, using a scale that combines low notes C to high notes E for the Devil’s Chords sound, transforming the reading of time from merely a practical indication to an orchestral performance.
The double retrograde perpetual calendar showcases information on the date, day of the week, and month, with mirror-image hands arranged on either side of the dial. Each time the hands reset, it instantly completes a visual overhaul. This isn’t just a display of technical complexity; it’s also a redefinition of The performance of time by Roger Dubuis. The flying tourbillon floats on the right side of the movement, incorporating an off-centered design to balance the left and right symmetrical structure, breaking away from the traditional central alignment and enhancing the dynamic beauty of the overall visual flow.
The movement bridge features a hollow design, providing a clear view of the entire mechanical algorithm. With a case diameter of 45mm, this watch utilizes a patented material combination, paired with a sapphire crystal case back and a three-dimensional engraved dial. Limited to just 8 pieces, it stands as a collector’s masterpiece.
The Excalibur Double Retrograde Calendar Watch pays homage to the classic double retrograde perpetual calendar language from the brand’s early days in 1996. This time around, it features a more compact 40mm case design, equipped with the in-house RD840 movement. The calendar display has been simplified to just the double retrograde date and day functions, eliminating the year and leap year indications, allowing a focused rhythm on time reading and visual symmetry.
The mother-of-pearl dial complemented by the mirror-finished blue steel hands exudes a mechanical language that is both restrained and subtly radiant. The overall structure retains a sense of precision that comes with complex functionalities, while also bringing the watch back to everyday wearable dimensions with exquisite design. This isn’t about nostalgia; it’s a reinterpretation of a classic language, conveyed through contemporary expression, reflecting a creative intent that has remained steadfast for thirty years—uncompromising in its commitment to the integrity of mechanical aesthetics, even when not fully understood by the mainstream market.
Roger Dubuis has marked three decades of unwavering style and a timeless language. From intricate functionalities to narrative artistry, and from skeleton architecture to high-performance materials, what it conveys is that haute horlogerie can have its own rhythm and logic.
In an era dominated by algorithms, nostalgia, and safe choices in watchmaking, Roger Dubuis consistently opts to speak its own language—crafting timepieces not for everyone, but leaving a lasting impression on a select few.
