To celebrate its 160th anniversary, ZENITH unveils the brand-new G.F.J. timepiece, reviving the remarkable achievements of the legendary Caliber 135. Named after the initials of founder Georges Favre-Jacot, this collection symbolizes the brand’s unwavering dedication to the art of mechanical watchmaking and its commitment to innovation. The watch continues the tradition of precision showcased in past observatory chronometer competitions while reinterpreting its core values through a modern lens.
The standout feature of the G.F.J. timepiece is undoubtedly the reissue of the 135 manually wound movement, a mechanism that was a consistent champion in astronomical observatory chronometry competitions in locations like Neuchâtel. Between 1949 and 1962, the 135 movement came in two versions: the standard commercial 135 and the competition-specific 135-O. The latter clinched over 235 awards in total, making it one of the most celebrated watch movements in horological history. From 1950 to 1954, the 135-O went on to achieve an unprecedented streak, winning first prize at the Neuchâtel Observatory for five consecutive years.
The newly launched Caliber 135 stays true to the original structural design, maintaining a 30mm diameter and 5mm thickness while incorporating modern watchmaking techniques to achieve a dual enhancement of performance and aesthetics. The balance wheel operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and is equipped with a Breguet overcoil, regulating screws, and a double arrow-shaped regulator, ensuring exceptional stability and precision. Complemented by a hacking seconds function, it allows for highly accurate time setting. Most importantly, the power reserve has been significantly increased to 72 hours, far surpassing the original 40 hours. With a precision rate within +/-2 seconds per day and COSC certification, it meets contemporary standards of high-precision timekeeping.
ZENITH spares no effort in showcasing its craftsmanship through intricate details. Every component of the movement undergoes meticulous hand-finishing, with the bridges adorned with a wheat-grain motif inspired by the red-and-white brick exterior of the manufacture—a design that subtly forms the initials of the founder G.F.J.. The surface of the mainspring barrel is embellished with circular satin finishing, while the crown wheel features a refined black polishing, exuding a discreetly sophisticated sense of artistry.
The dial of the G.F.J. watch features a three-layer design that showcases rich textures through a mix of materials and intricate details. The outermost ring is adorned with a blue Brick wheat motif, hand-set with 40 white gold beads as the minute track. The middle layer is crafted from deep blue lapis lazuli, speckled with natural golden pyrite, evoking a mesmerizing starry sky. Each lapis lazuli dial is one of a kind, perfectly reflecting ZENITH’s celebration of individuality and natural beauty. At the 6 o’clock position, a small seconds sub-dial made of mother-of-pearl adds a touch of soft radiance. Both the hands and hour markers are meticulously sculpted from 18K white gold with slender lines, blending harmoniously with the overall aesthetic.
The case is crafted from 950 platinum, boasting a diameter of 39.15mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 45.75mm. Its moderate size makes it suitable for a variety of wrist types. The silhouette is elegantly contoured, with a striking interplay of brushed and polished finishes to create dynamic layers. The stepped bezel features engraved G.F.J. lettering, highlighting the cohesive design language in its meticulous details.
Accessories-wise, the G.F.J. watch comes with three interchangeable straps: a deep blue alligator leather strap, a black calf leather strap, and a blue Saffiano calf leather strap, all paired with platinum pin buckles engraved with the brand’s iconic brick motif and the G.F.J. logo. Additionally, a seven-row platinum bracelet is available for purchase, featuring embossed brick patterns on the central links, exuding a refined and luxurious aesthetic.
This limited series of 160 pieces is exclusively available at ZENITH boutiques, the official website, and selected authorized retailers. It is designed for discerning collectors and enthusiasts of vintage movements.
