Comme des Garçons Homme Plus opened its Paris Fashion Week presentation with a two-act Spring/Summer 2027 collection titled "If the war ends...," a show by creative director Rei Kawakubo that mixed bright color with reworked military tailoring to explore hope and rebellion, the brand said.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, venue and staging
The first act took place at Élysée Montmartre, where lighting designer Thierry Dreyfus produced a stained-glass effect across the auditorium, the brand said. Ugo Nardini, performing as ADC303, provided a remixed score that pulsed under the runway and gave the collection a kinetic backdrop.
Design notes released with the show described an opening driven by striped sunshade motifs and a candy-pastel palette, including vibrant bubblegum pink, emerald green, navy, and sky blue. Those colors were paired with oversized coats and trouser silhouettes modeled on sleepwear, yielding a deliberate sense of ease rather than strict formalism.
Rei Kawakubo reframes military style
As the presentation progressed, Kawakubo stripped away the threatening connotations of traditional military dress and replaced them with softer hues and unexpected details, the brand said. The second half introduced pale lavender, seafoam green, lemon yellow, and muted rose, which recast utilitarian cuts as more whimsical.
The collection also injected high-contrast accents, including electric chartreuse, lavender double-breasted suits, and asymmetrical ruffle skirts, to challenge functionalist expectations while keeping a coherent tailoring vocabulary.
Immersive second act at Dover Street Market Paris
The show moved for its second act to the courtyard at Dover Street Market Paris, where an immersive installation framed new work by artist Nejc Prah and offered a gallery-like encounter with the clothes. The space emphasized layered textures and sculptural silhouettes, drawing attention to how the garments read in three dimensions.
COMME des GARÇONS said the split presentation was intended to shift the viewer from spectacle to a closer consideration of craft and proportion.
Iconic Mexican dancing boots return
The most talked-about moment came when the show reintroduced the pointed Mexican dancing boots, first seen in the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 collection. The boots returned after a decade, remade in collaboration with French shoemaker Mexicana, the brand said, with a slightly sharper toe for a cleaner profile.
Variants of the design made in partnership with George Cox and Kids Love Gaite also appeared on the runway, closing the show with a nod to cross-brand craft and performance traditions rooted in Guarachero culture.
What it means for the label
Across both acts, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus balanced a playful color strategy with structural experimentation, a move Kawakubo has long used to upend expectations. The presentation read as both a refusal to resolve tension and a proposal for how clothes might hold optimism in uncertain times.
Show notes and the brand's statement accompanied the presentation in Paris; designers, collaborators, and the music collective were credited in the program.
