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Home»Watches»Watches & Wonders»Roger Dubuis watches revisit dual retrograde display
Watches & Wonders

Roger Dubuis watches revisit dual retrograde display

2026-05-05By Angus Mok
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Roger Dubuis watches returned to the brand’s signature dual retrograde display at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 , Roger Dubuis said, reasserting the mechanism as a core part of its watchmaking language.

 Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar  stainless steel model, Cosmic Blue dial

At the show, Roger Dubuis introduced two new entries that reinterpret the dual retrograde concept for different uses. The brand said the approach balances technical architecture with a driven visual rhythm, keeping precision at the fore while restoring playful, dynamic indications to the dial.

Roger Dubuis watches, a return to the dual retrograde display

The first model, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar , uses a 40 millimeter stainless steel case intended for everyday wear, Roger Dubuis said. The dial is finished in a “Cosmic Blue” theme across a seven-layer construction that moves from an outer ring of indices into a skeletonized center, alternating sunburst and circular brushing to create pronounced depth.

40 millimeters, the brand noted, is the case diameter, and the watch places the dual retrograde weekday and date displays at the top and bottom of the dial so that the indications form a clear visual tempo as time passes.

 Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar  dial close-up showing dual retrograde indicators and skeletonized movement

Power comes from the automatic RD840 caliber, operating at 4 hertz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offering about 60 hours of reserve, the company said. The layout includes central hours and minutes with a small seconds at 6 o’clock; a sapphire caseback reveals the skeletonized rotor and fine finishing, and the movement carries the Poinçon de Genève certification.

The steel model measures 11.25 millimeters thick and is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. Roger Dubuis supplies an integrated stainless steel bracelet with a quick-change system for daily practicality.

RD840 automatic movement visible through sapphire caseback, Poinçon de Genève finishing

High complication, same visual language

The second piece, the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar , raises the technical stakes inside a 40 millimeter 18K pink gold case, Roger Dubuis said. It houses the automatic RD850 movement, constructed from 435 components and delivering about 60 hours of autonomy.

The watch combines the dual retrograde weekday and date display with full perpetual calendar functions, including month and leap-year indication, plus an astronomical moonphase at 6 o’clock that the brand says will require adjustment only after about 122 years.

 Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar  in 18K pink gold, Astral Blue dial with mother-of-pearl and aventurine moon disc

The dial is rendered in “Astral Blue” with a nine-layer construction, using a mother-of-pearl display and an aventurine moon disc, and it includes a raised pink-gold moon element to add sculptural depth. A month corrector is integrated into the movement so calendar adjustments are direct, and finishing touches such as inner-angle beveling reflect high-watchmaking standards.

Astral Blue dial detail with layered construction and three-dimensional moon element

Roger Dubuis said the two releases reposition the dual retrograde display across use cases, one focused on everyday wearability, the other on high complication. Through multi-layer dials and skeletonized movements, the brand aims to make mechanical operation part of the visual design, so that function reads as form.

Specifications and finishing, Roger Dubuis added, are consistent with the brand’s recent direction of pairing technical innovation with strong visual identity, and both movements meet the Poinçon de Genève criteria for Geneva Seal quality.

DUAL Excalibur Geneva Luxury Moonphase RD840 RD850 Watches Watchmaking
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